![]() WD hitch will smooth out the ride considerably and make for more comfortable travel, less bobbing (the dolphin) and keep sway in check. I have used WD hitch with a 3/4 ton truck with air bags towing an 800 lb trailer. So, you can see traction will be affected. With it on I have had the rear tires spin out because the weight was so unloaded on the rear truck tires - situation where there was a little dip involved. I use it on gravel roads, but if it gets rough, then I take the springs off. I have gone through some big rain ruts and heard no complaints from the WD hitch. The trailer should handle left to right movement within reason just fine, but again, rough roads with extreme angles will be too much. Now, this could happen in an odd parking lot drainage dip also, or a big driveway bump. There are different weight springs out there so some are more forgiving than others. The bending (hitch drops low) puts maximum force on the WD springs, which puts force on the trailer frame where they are mounted, and could break something, or bend it. You do not want to use it on rough roads with dips that bend the angle between truck and trailer. A WD hitch will be fine on a lot of forest service roads. If someone confuses that then pass it by. Guys can tow trailers all their life and still not have answers that are right.Īlso, anti-sway, when talking about hitches, is nto that same as the anti-sway bar on your truck's front end. Wow, I was looking for feedback from people using WD off road in light conditons and found some bad info here. A WDH would severely limit this in a BAD way. When this happens your trailer needs to have a hitch that allows the trailer to tilt. On a trailer if one wheel goes up the trailer just tilts. I don't know what purpose a sway bar serves on a trailer. ![]() ![]() On road and at higher speed you want the opposite. Off road (esp at slower speeds and rough terrain) you want the tires to move more freely and independently. With a vehicle with 4 wheels you still have the other two tires keeping you stable. With out a sway bar the opposing tire can move more freely, with a sway bar the opposing moves less. When you have a vehicle with 4 wheels, one at each corner, as one wheel goes up another one reacts. For off road use I would not want that.Īs far as sway bars, they tie one side of the axle together to the other to limit body role. I have used them in the past WDH and they serve a real purpose but it is basically sort of to combine the tow rig and trailer together at the hitch. WDH do the exact opposite they reduce the amount of movement. Hitches designed to be used off-road allow for a lot of movements in various directions so the trailer can tilt as I needs to. I would never consider using a WDH off road. Anti sway bars? No clue, but I'd assume the bushings wouldn't last long off pavement. Off pavement? Best to get your weights in order so you can remove it and allow articulation. If that amount of tongue weight makes your vehicle sag, then you need either a different tow vehicle, or a beefed up rear suspension. 10-15% is the agreed recommendation for tongue weight. I must clarify, we were hauling show animals, sometimes 4 or 500 miles a day. I've never used a weight distribution hitch with any livestock trailer. When we pull livestock or utility trailers we load them properly so that the tongue weight is appropriate to the load. I'm no expert, but it just seems to me that camper trailers in general are very poorly designed, otherwise weight distribution would not have to be corrected with a special hitch. I would not buy any kind of trailer that required a weight distribution hitch. From the small garden variety 1 and 2 axle livestock trailers, to 18 wheelers, to my current home built/modified expo trailer, I've pulled em all. I may be in the minority here but I've over 45 years experience pulling trailers.
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